♨️ Let’s wash away the sweat in the hot springs of the ancient capital ♨️
Chapter One — In Saga Arashiyama, Sensing Summer’s Lingering Glow and Autumn’s First Signs
In the western reaches of Kyoto lies the scenic haven of Saga Arashiyama.
Standing upon Togetsukyo Bridge, one still feels the summer breeze carried along the river, while the cicadas’ voices echo through the mountains. Yet, in the cool of morning and evening, a gentle hint of autumn drifts in the air. The light shimmering across the river’s surface retains summer’s vigor, even as it seems to herald the turning of the seasons. Little wonder that nobles of old chose this land as a place of retreat, drawn by the subtle transformations of nature through the year.
Walking the bamboo grove path, one finds lingering summer heat mingling with a brisk autumn wind that stirs the leaves—soothing the heart in its quiet rhythm. To visit Saga Arashiyama in this moment, when summer and autumn meet, is to savor a charm found in no other season.
And though September nears, the heat still lingers heavily upon us. Many a traveler, weary from the day’s wanderings, longs to wash away sweat before heading home refreshed. Thus, I, together with my Samurai companion, have resolved to pen this humble guide and present three onsen in Arashiyama most worthy of your visit.
The first bathhouse is Fufu no Yu, located just a two-minute walk from Hankyu Arashiyama Station, within Arashiyama’s Nakanoshima Park. After crossing Togetsukyo Bridge, strolling through the bamboo grove, and enjoying some street food, this is the perfect place to stop for a soak before heading home. The facilities are clean and well maintained, making it highly recommended.
It is operated by Dormy Inn, a company that manages inns and hotels throughout Japan, so every detail is carefully attended to. Truly, it is a bathhouse with no shortcomings.
The Samurai requested to cool his helmeted head and refresh himself with a chilled shampoo, yet I told him we must press on. “Endure for now—I shall treat you to tendon (tempura rice bowl) later,” I said, and he fell silent.
And here, a haiku:
“Between cool shampoo
and a bowl of tempura rice—
the Samurai chooses tendon.”
Chapter Two — Soothing the Heart in the Bath, Embracing Timeless Charm
Next, I introduce Rokuō-yu, a traditional neighborhood sento (public bath) where the bustle of Arashiyama seems but a distant memory. It is about a ten-minute walk from Togetsukyo Bridge, and only six minutes on foot from Randen’s “Rokuō-in” Station. Standing beside the historic Rokuō-in Temple, built by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, this bathhouse offers a glimpse into the atmosphere of old Japan.
Behold, this dignified presence, this noble noren curtain—truly the very image of a classic sento.
Ah, though the eaves seem not quite level… (Oops, sorry!)
Now then, let us step inside.
Inside, the ceiling rises high, and the sight of white steam drifting upward is as though summer’s lingering glow wavers in harmony with the mists of autumn. When one sinks into the bath, the weariness of late summer slowly melts away, while the cool breath of autumn air seems to rest gently upon the skin.
The tingling current of the electric bath soothes a body worn thin by summer, as though opening a gate into the new season. And after the bath, a chilled bottle of coffee milk brings the taste of summer’s remnants to the tongue, while the autumn breeze upon one’s back lends a refreshing finish.
To cleanse the body in such a sento—this harmony of summer’s afterglow and autumn’s arrival—is a luxury that can only be savored here and now in Saga Arashiyama.
This old-fashioned neighborhood bathhouse, weathered by time and gently fading, holds a charm all its own. Inside, it bustles with regular patrons, yet all are kind and friendly. Even for first-time visitors, a warm welcome surely awaits.
Chapter Three — In the Company of Others, the Heart Finds Its Ease
This bathhouse is cherished not only by travelers but also by the local folk, serving as a place of true relaxation. The facilities are quite spacious, and with Shochiku’s studios nearby, it is said that even celebrities occasionally drop by. With a stroke of luck, one might even share the bath in the most unguarded of company…
Now then—at the entrance stood a great barrel, and so I placed my Samurai within it for a commemorative photo. When such a thing presents itself, one simply cannot resist taking a picture!
Now then… a fair maiden offers me a sweet dumpling, and so I shall oblige her.
“Nay, nay, I must decline,” I say in playful jest…
In the end, time ran out and that day’s filming came to a close. We managed only a photo in front of the bathhouse, without ever stepping inside, and—our stomachs growling—we made our way instead to a tendon shop.
As for me, I have bathed here many times before, so allow me to say but one thing: “You cannot go wrong.”
Final Chapter
Bidding farewell to the lingering traces of summer upon Togetsukyo Bridge, finding rest in the warmth of the sento, and feeling the kindness of people—these were not mere moments of sightseeing, but nourishment for the heart. In this fleeting season, where summer and autumn meet, I was reminded anew of the joy of living in a land blessed with four seasons. Awaiting the full blaze of autumn leaves, I vow to return once more, though the afterglow of this journey is already etched deeply within my heart.
“The chirping of cicadas reflects on the surface of the river, and I wait for the autumn leaves to turn red. I cannot let go of the earthly desire of food, I am a samurai.”
To wander, to feast on good food, and at the end to bathe in soothing waters—this is the Arashiyama way. And should you also visit our SHOGUN STUDIO JAPAN for an armor-wearing experience, your memories of Arashiyama may grow all the richer still.
